Tag Archives: museums

ciao, bella!

The problem with slacking in your blogging is that when you finally do, you have so much to say. So I’ll admit, I’m guilty of this week.  So sit back, relax, find your coffee/pipe/snack and settle in for the post-Fall Break update:

Started the internship at the publishing house, and am really enjoying it.  It’s less an internship and more of a personal tutoring session given by a publisher; we have a very defined checklist (yet another syllabus, if you will) of what we’re going to accomplish (such as learning to correct Spanish texts, formatting a page to be printed, translating and other general editing tasks), and none of what we do in the weekly meetings is actually used or published.  Instead, we’re given exercises from the real world (real letters or documents) but only use them as practice materials.  This doesn’t bother me too much, it’s just not what I expected. It’s also great practice for my language skills, since I’m correcting texts in Spanish, and having to remind myself of grammatical and stylistic rules.  Now all I have to do is work up the courage to ask the company for a summer job…

Apart from academics: last week was Fall Break.  And before I launch into my description of my TRIP TO ITALY (!!!!) I should explain the nature of the holiday itself.  In Spain they have this wonderful custom of «hacer puente» (“making a bridge”) between two holidays, in this case the Valencian independence day and an obscure national holiday.  When this happens, you get all the time off in between the two holidays since they’re so close together.  What an excellent system.

a puente

So the week of freedom started off with a traditional Valencian holiday (read: fiesta) called Nou d’Octubre (the ninth of October).  I would be lying if I told you I knew the full story behind it, but basically on this date in the 13th century, Valencia defeated the foreign occupants in the city and declared itself independent.  I honestly didn’t know how important this day was to the Valencianos, but it definitely is: EVERYTHING was closed, and EVERYONE was downtown, watching or

the moros y christianos parade

participating in an incredible parade.  I’ve never seen such elaborate costumes: glitter and fans spitting fire and medieval robes. Moreover, it’s the Valencian version of Valentine’s Day, and the traditional gift to give your lady is a handkerchief full of marzipans shaped like fruits and veggies, or erotic shapes if you’re into that sort of thing.  After a day of spectacles, our new Valencian friends (a very convoluted story that includes playing guitar in a plaza, watching magic tricks and schmoozing with artists who live next to the city’s cathedral.  The ending, however, is that I’ve made some very colorful Spanish friends) invited us to their annual Nou d’Octubre dinner party.

And the fun never stops! After celebrating my first October 9th, I headed off to Italy for a week!  The posse I traveled with consisted of 5 other girls from my program, half of whom were from different schools (Catholic University, Michigan State) than UVA.  I didn’t know them all that well going into the trip, but I loved having a chance to spend time with them outside of the school, where our communication is generally limited by the fact that we can only speak in Spanish.

The trip started in Rome, where we stayed in a suburb northwest of the city center in a quintessential hostel: 10 beds to a room with one shower in between us all, lockers for our luggage, overstarched sheets (at least they were clean!), a communal kitchen and dining room, etc.  The guys at the desk were all hilarious and liked to broadcast American rap music over the speakers in the dining room every evening.   We spent the first night wandering around the city and managed almost immediately to stumble upon the Coliseum, the Forum and the Palatine Hill.  The amount of history in the city is staggering; everywhere you turn there’s some archeological wonder, something you’ve read about in history classes but never dreamed you’d see one day.  The next night we decided to check out Rome’s nightlife, and signed up for the infamous “Spanish Steps Pub Crawl”, during which a group of 20-somethings take the pub crawl participants around to different bars around the city.  What was great about this was the people we met: everyone was travelling, most of them without a plan, just seeing where life took them.  It was also nice to not have to worry about getting lost in the city, since we had people leading us.  Overall, a good night.

How fitting (or ironic, really) that after a night out my next day would be spent at the Vatican.  A word to the wise: when Rick Steves tells you in his Lonely Planet guide that Monday is NOT a good day to do the Vatican, listen to him.  He’s right.  A lot of the other museums and monuments in the city are closed this day, making it a perfect time to go visit the Pope and his pad.  So along with everyone and their uncle, I made my way to the northwest corner of the city.  Any visit here is divided into two parts: St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum.  Out of the two, the former was my favorite; you can just tell there’s something special about the place.  It’s not just a church, it’s THE church.  The interior is ornately decorated with gold, vivid paintings and incredible sculptures (such as one done by Michaelangelo when he was only 19).  Downstairs you’re led through the basement to the tomb of St. Peter himself, a shrine dedicated to the discovery of his remains that occurred rather recently in the 1960s.

Then onto the museum.  Imagine trying to fit all the attendants of a rock concert into one room.  Now multiply that by 20 (the amount of rooms it felt like we saw in the museum. Probably entirely inaccurate.), and imagine all these people moving in the same direction from narrow hallway to narrow hallway (in the direction of the Sistine Chapel, in this case).  That’s the Vatican Museum.  Not exactly my favorite experience of the trip.  I didn’t realize how vast this museum was going to be, and the amount of visitors there not only made it hard to maneuver, but hard to understand the significance of what we were seeing.  And once you start the tour you can’t backtrack (read: THERE IS NO ESCAPE).  But the payoff of walking into the Sistine Chapel is pretty incredible.  EVERYTHING in it is painted: the columns on the walls aren’t columns, they’re paintings.  The curtains aren’t fabric, but paint on walls.  And in the very center of the ceiling of this vast room: the creation of Adam.  Truly an amazing sight (there was no way the “no photos” rule was going to stop me from snapping a few shots).

My final day in Rome I spent at a Dada/Surrealist art exhibit at the Museo di Risorgimiento, right next to the Coliseum.  It was truly an incredible show, with pieces from Duchamp, Breton, Miró, Calder, etc.  For me, even if the message of the art escapes me, I am simply just excited to be in the same room with such famous works (ok, so call me an art groupie).  The rest of the day we just wandered around the city, trying to hit all the leftover spots before leaving the next day.  What we found was an adorable little neighborhood called Trastevere, a nice change from all the tourists and hustle and bustle of the downtown area.

sunset from the Ponte Rialto

Wow, we’re only on city 2 of 3 (or 5, depending on how you look at it) of this trip.  You’ll have to forgive me for rambling.  But onto Venice: what an amazing city.  There’s truly nothing like it anywhere else in the world.  We stayed in this adorable little town of Oriago, 30 minutes from downtown Venice (since lodging in the center of the city is way expensive), which was a great taste of what small-town life in Italy is like.  The town literally had one stoplight. So on our first day we caught a bus into town, and then hopped straight away on a water taxi to visit two of Venice’s outlying islands: Murano and Burano.  The first is known for its hand blown glass, while the second is a lace-making island.  Just to give you an idea of how incredibly beautiful it was: don’t be surprised if you hear I’ve escaped to Murano, eloped and started my apprenticeship as a glassblower.  When you’re in the factory watching them make it, it’s incredible to realize that this task has been done the same way for hundreds of years, and the skills the workers possess come straight from their fathers, grandfathers, etc.  It seems so picturesque and perfect from a tourist’s point of view, but can you imagine growing up with that kind of pressure?  With that decision having been made for you almost from the day you were born?  Phew.  Heavy stuff.  So after grappling with that reality, it was time for a change of scenery.  On to Burano (the prettiest of all the islands, according to the guy in the lobby of our hotel).   He knows his stuff; all the houses on the island are painted bright, cheerful colors, and a babbling canal runs through the town, where the locals park their boats for the commute to Venice proper.  The lacework is also gorgeous, even for those of us (aka: this chick) who aren’t that into it.  After snagging a slice of pizza and a few pastries, we headed out on the water taxi to downtown Venice.

By this time I was fading, very aware that I hadn’t had a siesta in 4+ days, so I opted to sit for an hour in St. Mark’s Square, people-watching and dodging swarms of low-flying pigeons.  Sounds boring, but was perfect to just sit there and soak up the atmosphere. All around the square are cafes and shops, and each café has its own band to serenade its diners.  And for the fellow-coffee fiends: the [allegedly] first café to serve espresso in Italy is in this same piazza.  After reconvening with the group (all people-watched out), we splurged and got a gondola ride (I say splurged, because, well, it isn’t cheap.  But what’s interesting is that there’s no set price for these rides, you just haggle until you get it down to where you want it.  After this trip I can honestly say I have improved greatly in this skill).  Much to our dismay, our gondolier didn’t/wouldn’t sing, but just being in a gondola, floating serenely down the Grand Canal was enough.  What’s also so special about Venice (something you really notice during one of these rides) is how quiet the back streets/canals are, since there are no cars or buses or even people walking around; all you really here is the calm lapping of the water against the ancient foundations of the buildings.  Post-ride we strolled/explored some more, taking in the sunset from the Rialto Bridge, and bingeing on gelato (despite the howling wind and impending rain that seemed to follow us around the country).

After the short stay in Venice, we were headed to Florence.  Almost can’t decide which I loved more between the two.  In Florence we had the luck of staying in the heart of the city, right near the cathedral.  We got in at night, so we headed straight out to see what we could: the cathedral (Duomo), the Ponte Vecchio, the church (and nightlife neighborhood) of Santa Croce.  We decided we were less interested in museums and monuments (being at the end of our spending money) and more excited to see the town, and the Tuscan countryside.  I’ll admit now that I regret not doing the obligatory Uffizi/Academia visits, because the amount and quality of art in them is staggering.  Next time, I guess! With the alternate plan in mind, we got an early start the next day, with our first stop being the leather market.  This place is just three big streets that are lined, everyday, with stalls selling leather, behind which are actual stores.  Again, my haggling skills came into play and I left satisfied with my purchases (a cashmere scarf and leather bag).  When I started contemplating leather pants, I knew it was time to get out of there. (¡BROMA!).  We then made our way to the town’s famous Duomo, the Pitti Palace (home to the Medicis, I think?) and the Ponte Vecchio for the second time.  In the afternoon, we hopped on a train bound for Siena, a tiny, quaint medieval town in the heart of Tuscany.  After general wandering and exploring (are you sensing a theme here yet?  If not, it’s the verb “explore”.  This translates roughly to: walking around, snapping photos of picturesque scenery and buildings, eating gelato, getting lost at least once, being ambivalent about what to do next, and eating dinner.  Not a horrible system, really.  I mean, when can I honestly say I’m going to be in Italy next?  At least I got out and saw it), we settled into a café in the town’s main piazza.  Warmed by a dinner of salad with roasted vegetables and a steaming plate of gnocci, we hopped back on the train back to Florence.

The next day was our last, with our plane leaving from Pisa in the early evening.  So OF COURSE we had to go see the Tower.  But really, there’s not much more to do in that town.  So we checked our stuff at the train station, power-walked over to the other side of the city, and stared in awe.  It’s really leaning, I’ll tell you that.  Made me kind of nervous to think about climbing it (that being the second most popular activity in this town, coming in just below taking the obligatory “I’m so strong I’m holding up the tower” optical illusion photo).  So we opted for the latter.  And that’s when my camera died.  That’s when I knew the trip was over, that it was back to the real world and back to Spain (if this dream life of mine can really be classified as “the real world”).

The trip (and the break from schoolwork) was an awesome experience.  Almost more so because of how much it taught me about travelling (and I don’t mean the kind I did in high school, when everything was planned for me and I just got to go along for the ride.  Don’t get me wrong, I kinda miss that style).  Like how you should not forget a towel when you’re staying in a hostel (don’t worry, Mom, I remembered shower shoes), not plan late afternoon flights so you don’t waste a day travelling, and not stress when there’s a plane delay.  And the time away made me realize how much Valencia feels like home; I was honestly EXCITED to get back to the country, back to a language I can communicate in, back to Adela’s awesome cooking, back to my new Spanish friends and my other friends in the program.  Of course I miss home, but I’m so grateful that this place has become comfortable to me.  It’s MY city; I’m not just visiting anymore.

And with that, I’m out.  I know I talked (wrote?) your ears off, but just think of it this way: there will be absolutely NOTHING of worth to report this week, as it is exams.  Enough said.


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Filed under fall semester, travel

movies, music, museums. or: cine, canciones y cultura.


I start my update this way only to mention that the American Rodeo has arrived in Valencia this week.  So periodically throughout the past couple of days we’ve spotted these rodeo cowboys wandering past us in the streets or, (no joke), eating at the Burger King.  There are some aspects of American culture I guess I’ll never be able to escape…

Over the past few days I’ve been focusing my attention on the people and places of Valencia, trying to find my niche.  This quest started with a mid-week trip to the movies.  I had heard about this one film called Gordos (literally: “Fatties”) by Daniel Sanchez Arévalo that had just come out; our cinema teacher at school had showed us one of his short films in class, which everyone enjoyed, so I thought it’d be interesting to see another work by him.  So a few friends and I embarked on a somewhat confusing walk to the center of town, unsure of just what exactly was awaiting us at the cinema.  Would we even be able to understand it?  Would it be funny? Depressing? Totally artsy and incomprehensible?  To our pleasant surprise it was an EXCELLENT movie on so many levels.

The plot basically centered around a weight loss group and its members, all of whom had un montón de issues (identity crises, infidelity, ambiguous sexuality, to name a few) revolving around food.  I picked this one since it dealt with issue of obesity in Spain, which, after being here a few weeks and checking the people out on the street, doesn’t seem to even exist (EVERYONE here is thin/healthy). Thought it would be interesting to see the contrast (or the similarity) to the American obesity problem.  And of course there was the obligatory damning statement about Fat Americans.  Another interesting element was how graphically sexual the film was; somewhat similar to the level HBO likes to take their shows.  But the audience didn’t seem to care; only we Americans were scandalized.  I’d say a large part of what was so interesting about this evening at the movies was being a part of the audience, right alongside Spaniards (as opposed to sitting in a classroom watching a film for class, or even renting a foreign film and watching it at home).  In the end, everyone loved the movie and the evening out itself, the perfect jolt of culture shock to get us through the rest of the week.

me 'n' Diego, at the concert

I’ve also recently been getting a taste of Spanish music.  Have been to two concerts now: the first in a smoky bar right next to my apartment, accompanied by some girls from the program and Diego (my exchange partner) and his friends, and the second in another neighborhood bar where my friend’s hermano (host brother) was playing.  A lot of Spaniards have told me they don’t like Spanish music, that the lyrics are really poetic and beautiful but the music itself is nothing special.  I’d say that’s true.  It’s much more “fun” music than anything else, but still enjoyable.  These bands also had an affinity for classic American/English rock, so between both concerts I think I heard selections from CCR, Rolling Stones, AC/DC.  It’s also great to hear them play what I think are the Spanish equivalent of Journey’s “Don’t Stop Believin” and all those songs you hear in bars and everyone starts singing along to.  The bar will erupt with slurred Spanish lyrics that I don’t understand but I know make people happy.  So again some cultural norms span many continents.

This weekend was our first one without class on Friday (3 day weekend woohoo!) so a lot of people went out of town.  This only helped me further my campaign to see more of Valencia itself: I woke up Friday morning and went to MuVIM, the Museum of Video and Illustration (I think?).  It was bizarre: a somewhat shabbily put together interactive tour through the entire history of western civilization, starting with illuminated manuscripts which would be replaced by the printing press, and ending in a video montage which was meant to sum up almost everything after industrialization.  The images on said montage were just looped segments from the Holocaust, the Vietnam War, the Spanish Civil War, etc. etc. Guess they don’t really have high hopes for modern society?  But the visit was free so I can’t say I lost anything by going.  Afterwards a few friends and I walked to the Plaza de la Reina, where the Cathedral is, and climbed to the top of the cathedral’s tower.  The view from the top was incredible.  A lovely mid-morning adventure.  To top of the weekend I went to the Museo de Bellas Artes, which houses quite a collection of famous works (Goya, El Greco, Velazquez, Sorolla, etc.) and later today I’m going to try and visit the modern art museum (hoping that the impending rain won’t spoil the rather long walk there!)

now, if that isn’t a cultured weekend, I don’t know what is.


Filed under fall semester, travel, Valencia